Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Cocktail Culture in the PHX


After a two-night stay in the City of Bros (A.K.A. Scottsdale, AZ) I have a newfound respect for the men and women behind the stick there. I started my journey innocently enough by rolling by to see Rich Heider II, barman at BLT Steak (the posh steakhouse on the Marriott Camelback Inn). Rich is quite the cocktail buff, having worked with countless brands and nationally-famous mixologists, along with his home experimentations that he's turned into a well-followed series called "Cocktail Lab 2120B" on Facebook. I asked Rich to make me something with tequila--my favorite spirit--and he did not disappoint. Muddled strawberries, mint, and other deliciousness made for a perfectly-balanced night starter.

Rich's workplace, BLT Steak, features a multitude of great classically-style cocktails, in addition to all fresh ingredients, a good back bar, and--the crown jewel--a Kold Draft machine. We got three cocktails: The aforementioned tequila cooler, a creation with gin, Green Chartreuse, fresh lemon sour, and champagne, and the Violet French 75.




Violet French 75

Hendrick's, Crème de Violet, Sence Nectar, lemon, Gruet Sparkling Wine

Circa 1918 - Created for a WWI fighter pilot and named for the French artillary gun











All three were fantastic. Rich is meticulous in his measurements and presentation. I was also fascinated by the champagne stopper used in the Gruet bottle... it was a marvel of ingenuity, self-stopping, and gorgeous (without sacrificing functionality).




After leaving BLT, we cruised by The Vig (Arcadia), a veritable waystation for both Phoenix and Scottsdale dwellers going back and forth between the two cities. Though the Vig isn't going to wow anyone looking for a NYC-style cocktail list, the place is gorgeous and reasonably-priced for a Scottsdale-esque lounge. Their head barman, Logan Purser, is a friend and a great bartender, so we ended up finishing the night there. The service was impeccable, the atmosphere comfortable, and the drinks were tasty. First bar I've ever been to that does Moscow Mules with actual Cock 'n Bull ginger beer!




Night two found us cruising by Rancho Pinot: a oddly-kitsch Old West-themed restaurant with an amazing fresh menu and some spectacular cocktails. The cocktails are the brainchild of Travis K. Nass, a cocktailian bartender with a mustache that would make Groucho Marx envious. Though most people probably remember Travis because of his mustache, they should take a second look at his cocktails... the man is no joke. One of the best things about Travis and his drink program is his attention to proper technique. The man crushes ice with a lewis bag, stirs drinks with ease and has a dazzling array of tools at his disposal that he's not shy about using. Some of his cocktails include a "Cucumber 50/50", which boasts Hendricks gin and Dolin Dry vermouth in equal proportions, along with house-made cucumber bitters, a cocktail employing blackberries and Old Tom Gin, and a Dark 'n Stormy with house-made ginger ale. And the bitters? Oh, can the man make bitters! He also makes his own orange flower water in-house, which is the first I've seen. It is delightfully fresh and fragrant, and stands up easily to any commercially-available brand.


Mr. Nass also let me try two very limited edition cocktails on his menu: an oak-aged absinthe cocktail, and an oak-aged Mint Julep. The absinthe cocktail was excellent. I had my doubts that oak aging would do anything good for absinthe, but Nass' craftsmanship was solid.




The cocktail is comprised of oak-aged Kubler absinthe, fresh lemon juice, Luxardo maraschino, simple syrup, and Peychaud's bitters. The oak notes of the maraschino marry perfectly with the aged absinthe, and the anise in the Peychaud's blends with the Kubler. Though absinthe is a tough base for a drink, this one fairs quite well.

The second oak-aged libation was an aged mint julep:

Great mint bouquet, perfectly-crushed ice, and an authentic copper mug.

The problem with this julep was that it was aged too long (Travis admitted as much). The over-aging process really takes a lot away from the sweetness and the fresh mint of the julep. It makes the drink taste a little bit like wet cardboard. It was hard to finish, but one could imagine that had the cocktail not been aged for as long as it had, this would have been dynamite, especially on derby day.








I also had the privilege of checking out famed mixologist Jason Asher's new digs at Mabel's On Main, a former sports bar tucked away in the art gallery district of Old Town Scottsdale. And I have got to say: Mabel's is f*$#ing sexy! Maybe one of the most enjoyable cocktail experiences around. Not only is the atmosphere swank (and yet, inviting) but the cocktail is well-rounded, the bartenders are pros, and the food is unreal. My only complaint? The 20th Century cocktail I had was served on the rocks, and also didn't have enough Creme de cacao or Lillet to be balanced. It seemed to comprised almost entirely of gin and lemon juice. I wouldn't even mention it if it wasn't my favorite gin cocktail. Definitely THE definitive bar experience in Phoenix. As an added bonus: Asher and Co. have put together a Sunday industry night called Vintage & Vinyl, a guest-bartender scenario where some of the Valley's--and the nation's--best bartenders get a couple hours behind the stick, catering to an enthusiastic and eager crowd. Sources say it's the best day to drink if you're in Arizona.

The last stop on my journey was Richie Moe's Citizen Public House. Richie is the same guy who went the Finlandia Cup World Finals a couple years ago, and he hasn't stopped there. I love Richie because he's the type of bartender who's fascinated with the exploration of his craft. His natural curiosity often leads him to new and exciting methods of crafting cocktails, and it's pretty damn entertaining, too. On our visit to Citizen, Richie showed me his Macallan ice ball maker; a rare, exclusive gift from the company. The machine uses copper construction and gravity to craft perfect spheres out of large chunks of hand-cut ice. Citizen Public House has great late-night grub to go along with its magnificent cocktail list, and extremely friendly bartenders.

In short, Scottsdale is not lacking when it comes to cocktail talent.

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Do Not Go Gently Into That Good Night...

It's official: only three more shifts at the venerable Hotel Congress. It's a bittersweet ending to a hellavua ride these last four years. I would like to think that drinking in Tucson has in some way benefited from our efforts here. After winning a handful of cool awards and getting downtown's incorrigably hip drunk for the last part of a decade, it's time for this show to hit the road. Where I end up is uncertain now, but know this: there will be drinking.